Tenganan located in Karangasem, in the northeast of Bali. It’s origins are lost in time, as this village that was founded by the first migrants to Bali. People who live here are called Bali Aga; they are considered to be aborigines of Bali, but this is not quite true. They came here long ago, and time has erased all the memories about the place they came from. Researchers claim India could have been their original home. If you read about Bali Aga on Wikipedia, you can learn that the term “Bali Aga” is insulting, but these people have never heard about it. Quite the opposite, they seem proud to be Bali Aga.
Even though you can find several Bali Aga villages in Bali, Tenganan is particularly unique.
They still hold onto their traditions and don’t change much for invaders or tourists. I believe this is due to their innate love for their culture. For example, Gede – the guide who will lead us through the village and its history – has a passion that shows when he’s talking about Tenganan and its people. He introduced us to Pak Putu Yudiana – the village head. He is in charge of peace in Tenganan and its prosperity.
The main part of the village has four gates leading in different directions. There is another village right outside the central area. People who live here aren’t Bali Aga, but they still can take part in some ceremonies and help the village. Just beside there are rice terraces that belong to the Tenganan people. They are entitled to a part of their income from those fields.
You won’t find swings or cafes there, because Bali Aga don’t sell their land. They keep it preserved as it was centuries ago, following the traditions of their ancestors, and they prefer stability over quick money.
Currently, this village consists of 26 families of indigenous Bali Aga.
People here can’t marry anyone from outside the village. They actually can, but in this case, they lose the right to participate in the ceremonies, vote, or get a part of the village’s income. So, it’s easier to marry within the village than face the humiliation of being excluded. Every day the six leaders of Tenganan, including Pak Putu, gather to discuss the village management and preparation for the ceremonies.
It’s quite surprising how Bali Aga manage to keep their lives flowing the same way as it was when their ancestors arrived in Bali. They have a lucky charm that has helped them throughout the centuries, and people protect it at all costs – their weaving.
Readers who know a thing or two about Indonesia might roll their eyes – weaving, again? But hear me out. It’s a double-ikat cloth called Gringsing. Gring means sick and sing means no. So, this weaving is protecting its owner from illnesses and bad luck. Everyone in the village has their gringsing. They wear it for ceremonies symbolizing a transition to a new level. And it’s not just belief; the magical weaving has proved its power.
What is Tenganan Gringsing?
Tenganan Gringsing and its 26 patterns got a geographical indication certificate, which means this weaving can be produced in Tenganan only. But what is so special about it? First things first: it’s made of natural materials. Clothes, paint, the weaving process – all of it is 100% natural. No machines or chemicals are used.
This leads us to the second important point: producing one piece might take up to 2 years. Colors are layered one by one, and it takes a long time to dry. The third most clear-cut distinction is the pattern.
There are several different patterns, but the main one looks like a starry sky. It’s believed that Indra – the god of war – was watching the night sky and liked the pattern so much that he taught the women of Tenganan how to weave it. There are some Gringsing as old as 100 years. People are ready to pay a lot of money for them. “It’s not that we don’t need money,” Gede explains, “it’s just that these Gringsing are priceless. They are not for sale.”
Why bother so much with 100% natural cloth that takes so long to make? Why not sell some land to build a resort and make some extra money? The answer is easy: the Tri Hita Karana concept. This can be translated as “three causes of well-being.” To live a happy life, you need to maintain a good relationship with nature, gods, and people. Children are taught this and other traditions of the village at boarding school.
When they go outside of the village to study or work in the city, they face a whole new reality with different views and rules.
Bali Aga makes sure their children remember where they come from.
During the Usaba Sambah ceremony, unmarried men and women ride a special swing. It reminds me of a Ferris wheel and has a deep meaning. It symbolizes the flow of life: when you are born, you have nothing and your parents help you grow and get a little higher. Then your friends and a partner support you and help you get to the top.
This is the most difficult point in life: if you forget about those people and they let go of your swing, you will quickly fall down. If you keep them around, life will be peaceful and you will enjoy the ride.
Bali Aga hold onto their traditions and their big family. They remember where they came from and who helped them get to the top. This is how they manage to keep their traditions going.
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This article was made possible thanks to Pak Putu and Gede
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