Raja Ampat
It’s like stepping into another world, breathing in the fresh, salty air, being lulled by the splash of water against the hull of our ferry. Finally, we arrive in Raja Ampat. Yes, the ultimate tropical paradise in West Papua.
To get here, we traverse passed and through many islands, large and small, our eyes reflecting the cool blues of the water and the earthy green of lush vegetation blanketing majestic hills. One can feel quite small in such a presence.
Raja Ampat is relatively remote, accommodations and man-made venues are scarce (which is good), and the trip, well, it requires patience. Naturally, it was worth it.
The name Raja Ampat, or the Four Kings, alludes to the four main islands in the archipelago: Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati, and Misool. Each island—not to mention the 1500 islets and cays around them—is equally captivating with biodiverse underwater environments (home to 75% of the world’s species!) and unique land attractions.
There are too many to Islands to explore but we try to catch the best ones.
Misool Island, for instance, offers scenic views aplenty—both on land and sea. It is part of the world’s coral triangle, so you can expect magnificent coral reefs and all sorts of marine species like seahorses, manta rays, wobbegongs, reef sharks, turtles, and colorful and unique fishes too plentiful to name.
We were continually mesmerized.
On land, our favorite spot is Lenmakana Lake, a marine lake that can be challenging to reach as you must trek up and down karst landscape that sort of barricades the lake.
The interesting part of Lenmakana? The non-stinging jellyfish. It’s a tickly experience at first, but you will get used to it. Remember, they are stingless. So, feel free to jump in.
Arborek Sand Cay is a snorkeler- and diver-friendly site with colorful soft corals and schools of fish inhabiting the water underneath.
Arborek is a small, flat island with a coastline that will only take you 30 minutes to cover. Plus, if you prefer a more communal experience while traveling to Raja Ampat, then this is the place for you. It won’t feel too remote as there is a village designated by the government as a tourism village.
The locals are welcoming all guests with dance and music, a delight to the soul to get to know these wonderful people. Expect homestays, souvenir shops, and workshops where you can learn how to make traditional items such as Noken (Papuan woven sling bags), Bayay (woven baskets), to cute manta ray shaped hats woven from naturally dyed pandanus.
As for diving sites, the passage between Waigeo Island and Gam Island offers unforgettable sights.
Flanked by magnificent limestone cliffs, the passage has a healthy marine biodiversity that includes bumphead parrotfish, giant trevally, and an abundance of soft corals. However, watch out for the current because it can be pretty intense.
Other amazing diving spots include the Dampier Strait, Batu Lima, Friwen Wall, Sawandarek, and Yenbuba.
Speaking of diving, we were advised by our guide that Raja Ampat is not for novice divers due to often unexpected undercurrents and strong waves. Do your research and find a truly experienced local instructor if you wish to dive here. Otherwise, play it safe and snorkel instead, and you will still be able to marvel at the beauty of Raja Ampat.
The Sorong Way
To get to Raja Ampat, you must first fly from Jakarta, Surabaya or Makassar (Ujung Pandang) to Domine Eduard Osok Airport in Sorong, the largest city on the western tip of Papua. From Sorong, you have two options: book a seat on a small aircraft that will take you to Waisai, the capital district of Raja Ampat – or – board a ferry from Sorong to Waisai that will take around 2 hours.