Denpasar is a city with a tangle of people from all over Indonesia.
The traffic in this metropolis causes innumerable congested streets and alleys. Despite the fact that there is a lot of noise, many people, many scents, and a lot of bustle, this city has a unique appeal and features.
Albeit traffic can be a challenge, and you easily get lost, but you will find yourself in a colourful chaos.
Look beyond the hustle-and-bustle of downtown Denpasar, and you’ll discover something special. Starting from the historic streets of Jalan Gajah Mada (Old Town), the beauty of the Catur Muka statue and Puputan Square, the geographical center of Denpasar at Kilometer zero, the world of fabrics and cafes with vibrant old town style buildings along the streets of Denpasar’s old town.
The Old Town of Denpasar
More than a century ago, the Kingdom of Badung provided a place for the ethnic Chinese.
During the Dutch colonial period the town and Chinese settlements were reorganized into Jalan Gajah Mada and Jalan Kartini. As a result the buildings there are still colonial in design, and under the Dutch control the region was developed into a commercial function, giving rise to Chinatown or Kampung Cina.
The first street to explore in Denpasar is Thamrin Street, on which stands the majestic Puri Agung Pemecutan, royal residence of the King of Denpasar and the Pemecutan royal family. The architecture of Puri Agung Pemecutan is still very well preserved until now.
For tourists who want to visit Puri Agung Pemecutan, they are only allowed to take photos in front of the gate or courtyard of the residence because the area inside is closed to the public.
After exploring Thamrin Street, we now turn to the right, towards Gajah Mada Street. This street has shops with old architecture that is still very well preserved. In the 60s and 70s, Gajah Mada Street was a popular hangout spot for young people in Denpasar, and in the past, there was Wisnu Cinema, which was the first cinema in Bali.
The second, Indra Cinema, was built at the west end of Gajah Mada Street. Afterwards Wisata Cinema was established on Thamrin Street, which is still there today and is known as Denpasar Cineplex.
There is also the Kumbasari Market, which sells a variety of Balinese arts and crafts, and Badung Market that has recently undergone a modern makeover. It is now a three-story building selling fresh produce, animal products, and even spices that you wouldn’t normally find in other traditional markets.
Jalan Sulawesi and its Tailors
After exploring Thamrin Street and Gajah Mada Street, we head straight to Sulawesi Street, which is still located around the cultural heritage area of Denpasar. For fashion and textile lovers, this street is a paradise as you’ll find a lot of fabric shops of various types along this street.
Historically, Sulawesi Street was mainly inhabited by Arabic traders (colloquially called “kampung Arab” or Arab village) and originally a center for wooden furniture shops. As time went by, most production of furniture moved to Kerobokan area (probably because it was a busier and tourist-friendly location) and the shop owners eventually replaced their products with textile/fabric products. You can get various fabric-based products here, with retail or wholesale purchases.
After shopping at Sulawesi Street, you can relax for a while at cafés and old-timey coffee shops such as Bhineka Djaja that still retain this old town vibe.
Catur Muka
We continued walking to the Catur Muka Statue, which is Kilometer Zero in the geographical location of Denpasar. The Catur Muka statue was erected in 1973 by a well-known Balinese artist named I Gusti Nyoman Lempad from the village of Ubud. The statue is made of granite and stands 9 meters tall.
The philosophy of this statue is that the Four Faces Statue standing on the Lotus/Padma flower is the reincarnation of His Guru, in the form of the embodiment of Catur Gophala. Taking the Four Faces embodiment is symbolic of the holder of governmental power depicted in his four hands.
Puputan Badung
Near the statue you can also find the Bali Museum as well as the Puputan Badung Field, which in 1906 was the battlefield during the Puputan Badung War when the Dutch army invaded Denpasar.
The word puputan when translated means “all out”. And in the western part of Puputan Field there is a monument that was established as a form of remembrance and respect for the Balinese people who fought an all-out war against the Dutch army to defend the honor and dignity of the Balinese people and, of course, Indonesia. At that time, no less than four thousand people, including the Denpasar Royal family, were killed.
Today, the Puputan Badung monument is the center of recreational activities for the people of Denpasar who flock to Puputan Square every afternoon to exercise or relax with their families.
Pura Jagatnatha
Another closeby location and definitely worth a visit is this temple, the Pura Jagatnatha, devoted to Sanghyang Widi, the highest god in Balinese Hinduism. It was unfortunately damaged during Puputan in 1906, but was reconstructed in 1907. The major temple is centered on the turtle Bedawang which is surrounded by two snakes. This image represents the creation of the world.
